Waking "the brand that went to sleep" is no simple task but Ramesh Nair with his impressive background is slowly resuscitating the old trunk maker. Inspired by designs from Moynat's archives, the sacs de ville are infused with the company's rich history and yet they retain their relevancy for today. "I saw four trunks, but I had absolutely no idea about the brand. It was carte blanche and we were on the road."
Mr. Nair has taken a simple shopper tote and made four handles for it, the Quattro. Clever handles is one of Moynat's specialty. He has also introduced the shape of an automobile trunk into the soon-to-be iconic Pauline, a top handled bag.
I am excited to see what the young designer has in store for MOYNAT. He promises to stay within the brand's ideals. "It would have been such a waste to let go of something like this." {Interviews from Vogue, The Telegraph and Inerview Magazine}
Saturday, March 3, 2012
La personnalisation de sacs chez MOYNAT
Personalized items are a rarity these days. I am glad that MOYNAT has decided to continue the time honoured tradition of hand painting the owner's initials on their canvas.
La personnalisation de sacs chez Moynat from Antoine Duvauchelle on Vimeo.
MOYNAT, la belle endormie
The Maison is absolutely beautiful. I need to plan a trip to Paris soon!
Moynat, la belle endormie from Antoine Duvauchelle on Vimeo.
Friday, March 2, 2012
L'histoire
MOYNAT was one of the very first who specialized in leather goods at that time. They became known for their traditional know-how and skills excelling in handcrafted, made to order luggage and travel pieces. The collaboration between Moynat and the Coulembier family continued with François' sons Jules Ferdinand, Edmond, Louis and Maurice. The House reached the height of its popularity under the direction of the founder’s grandsons, profiting from the rise of the automobile to become a design reference in the context of this new mode of transport.
In 1907 the Coulembier family began construction on a model-factory at 15, rue Coysevox up at Montmartre. With some 1500m² of space situated in a five-storey building, the factory employed more than 250 workers, most of whom were specialist artisans, who built all the MOYNAT trunks. For the first time ever in Paris all the specialist skills associated with trunk-making were gathered together in one place.
MOYNAT patented its first inventions for packaging materials in 1854. The label was the first to use hardened gutta-percha waterproofing, an Indonesian sap that guaranteed trunks to be watertight. In 1873, Moynat brought out the wicker trunk, known as the “English trunk” or “Malle Anglaise”, a lightweight structure consisting of a wicker frame, covered with a varnished canvas and leather trimming. The product weighed a mere two kilos and was highly sought after by travellers wishing to avoid excess baggage fees. This trunk was subsequently improved and a new patent filed in 1889.
Lightweight, wicker Moynat trunk (English trunk), tarred and varnished canvas edged with sturdy cowhide. 1879, Collection Moynat Paris. www.MOYNAT.com |
In 1878 Pauline Moynat created first range of ladies' handbags and "sacs mignons" – with chamois linings.
In 1889 Jules Coulembier perfected a whole new system of lightweight trunks, followed in 1910 by the invention of a extra-light, unbreakable model. The House of Moynat also produced a series of security mechanisms for its trunks.La serrure MOYNAT (Modèle déposé). Lock patented by Moynat c.1920. |
From 1900 onwards, MOYNAT became the indisputable market leader in automobile luggage, for which the house developed a number of patented products including the limousine trunk with a concave bottom (as seen on the blog's banner) in 1910. In 1928 came the side or lateral sliding trunk, a mechanism that foreshadowed the development of integrated trunks in vehicles from the 1930s onwards. The label collaborated with a number of different car designers such as Bugatti, Binder, Voisin, Labourdette and the Mühlbacher House.
Beyond its trunks, MOYNAT went on to produce a wide range of toiletries, small leather goods, together with textile goods, paper products and tableware, creating a whole lifestyle for the house, including products such as pique-nique baskets and hold-alls. Automobile trunks were offered in colours, adapting the coating to the exact tone of the vehicle’s bodywork.
MOYNAT luggage was varied in pattern and design, ranging from monochrome or beige stipes (1860s/70s), cheques "damier" (from 1880) or the distinctive Moynat monogram (1920s onwards).
Baggage-hold trunk, brass corners, Moynat Damier canvas. 1904, Collection Moynat Paris. www.MOYNAT.com |
The piece de resistance of MOYNAT's contribution to the Exposition Internationale was the red morocco leather trunk, a rare piece designed by the young artistic director Henri Rapin. The much-admired trunk took away the Diplôme d'Honneur, marking the beginning of a profitable collaboration between artist and trunk-maker.
Trunk in red, morocco leather with a frieze of studs encircling palm leaves in blue, lapis lazuli leather, designed by Henri Rapin. 1925, Collection Moynat Paris. |
MOYNAT began a long lasting collaboration with Henri Rapin as its creative director. Mr. Rapin designed the logos of the House, the Moynat monogram, illustrated the product catalogues and conceived the models presented at universal and international exhibitions.
Logo Designed by Henri Rapin that was affixed to trunks |
MOYNAT closed its boutique at the Place du Théâtre Français in 1976. Its trunks however continued to travel around the world. The Scholl family bought the rights to the house in the early 1980s for use by its company Malles et Voyages. Orcofi, the Vuitton family’s holding company, bought Malles et Voyages in 1989, following the disposal of the bulk of its shares in LVMH. Orcofi’s CEO, Vuitton's former President Henry Racamier, had planned to relaunch Moynat as a competitor to Louis Vuitton. However Orcofi was eventually sold to AXA in 1996 and its assets were stripped, thus the ambitious plans to relaunch Moynat never saw the light of day. Luxury holding company Luvanis SA bought the rights to Moynat in 2009. Groupe Arnault, LVMH's CEO Bernard Arnault's holding company bought Moynat in 2010 with plans to relaunch operations by 2011.
Groupe Arnault, LVMH's CEO Bernard Arnault's holding company bought Moynat in 2010 with plans to relaunch operations by 2011.
By December 2011, Maison MOYNAT opened its doors to a new generation. (Source: Wikipedia)
Me, Myself & MOYNAT
It was in late January 2012 that I discovered MOYNAT. I saw a blurb about it in WWD and since I've never heard of it, I decided to do a little bit of research. A pet project of Bernard Arnault, LVMH's controversial Chief Executive, he purchased the 19th century trunk maker in 2010. By December 2011, a Maison was opened at 348 rue Saint Honoré, right next to Hermès and catty-corner to Goyard, two of my most favourite brands.
By then the company already had a website: www.MOYNAT.com and it was there that I fell in love with the Cabas Initial.
By then the company already had a website: www.MOYNAT.com and it was there that I fell in love with the Cabas Initial.
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